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KINGSTON FKEEMAN, 
KINGSTON, N. Y. 



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COPYRIGHTED 1894 BY 
. SIMS, GBNE1{AI> PASSENGER AGENT, 
THE ULSTER & DEI^AWARE R. R. 
RE-ISSUED 1912. 



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Source uxixC^o^wr. 



THIS book Is Issued by the Passenger Department of The 
Ulster & Dehnvare Railroad Company. It Is devoted to 
descriptive matter pertaining to the CatsklU Mountains. 
It contains general information regarding the leading points of 
interest througliout the range: what and where they are. how 
to reach them and wiiat to look for. It Is an accurate guide 
book to the regions reached by .this mountain railway system. 




Wlthtlie exception of the points reached by the railroads, 
the altitudes given in tliis book are In accordance with Prof. 
Guyot, wlio was the llrst to make accurate measurements of the 
Oatskills some years ago. 



CONTENTS. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

A Drive in Twilislit Park 8 

A Rustic Scene Between Grand 

Gorge and Soutli Gilboa 48 

A Turn in the Road 78 

A Typical Country Road 22 

A View of Haines Falls, Sunset 

and TwiliKht Parlis 62 

Deep Hollow Notch Lalce 10 

In Du Vail Hollow 26 

In the East Meredith Section 70 

Looking West from Grand Hotel 

Grounds into Delaware 

tlounty 28 

Looking Up the Woodland Valley. . .6 
North Lake and North Mountain 

from the Kaaterskill 70 

Overlooking Fleischmanns and 

Griffins Corners 24 



PAGE 

On the Road near Mount Tremper..l8 

Red Falls -54 

Roxmor— Woodland Valley 30 

Some of the Mountain Peaks 

near Chichester 44 

State Road Between Bloomville 

and Delhi 36 

8un.set Rock 42 

Sunset in the Mountains 46 

The Famous Stony Clove 12 

The Morning Mail 72 

The Mount Pleasant Valley 38 

The Railroad Station at Phoenicia. .16 
The State Road near Mt. Pleasant.. 14 

The Village of Prattsville 40 

The Village of Stamford 32 

The Wittenburg and Slide 

Mountains 20 



LIST OF HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES LOCATED AT 



PAGE 

Arkville 1 15 

Arena 130 

Andes 131 

Big Indian 11 1-11-i 

Bloomville 120 

Brodhead's Bridge 109 

Davenport Center 120 

Downsville 131 

Dunraven 130 

Bast Meredith 120 

Edgewood 122 

Fleischmanns 113-114 

Grand Gorge • . .116-117 

Grand Hotel Station 113 

Haines' Falls 128-129 

Halcottville 115 

Harvard 131 

Hobart 119 

Hunter 122-123-124-125-126 

Kaaterskill 129 

Kaaterskill Junction 122 

Kelly's Corners 115 



PAGE 

Kortright Station 120 

Lanesville 122 

I>aurel House Station 129 

Mt. Pleasant 109-110 

Margaretville 130 

Olive Branch 109 

Oneonta 121 

Pepacton 131 

Phoenicia 110 

Pine Hill 112 

Roxbury 11.^-116 

Shandaken 1 10-1 11 

Shokan 109 

South Gilboa 117 

South Kortright 119 

Stamford 117-118-119 

Shavertown 131 

Tannersville 126-127-128 

Union Grove 130-131 

West Davenport 121 

West Hurley 108 



CONTENTS. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



PAGE 

Announcement 7!» 

Distance Table 74 

Elevations 74 

Excursion Fares from New York... 77 
One Way Fares from New York 77 



PAGE 

Rail and Steamer Connections 75 

Rates of Fare from Junction Points.75 

Stage Connections 73 

Stations 74 



SPECIAL PAGKS. 



P.VGF, 

Austin Villa 103 

Belle Vue House and Cottages 100 

Catsklll Mountain House 107 

Churchill Hall 84 

Devasego Inn 94-!i5 

Glen Park House W 

Greycourt Inn 8:5 

John Frohner's Villa Mercedes lOii 

K.'ndall Place 92 

Lament's Hotel 81 

New Grant House — 86 

Pleasant Home Cottage .!»7 

Prospect Place 91 

Rip Van Winkle House 104 



PAGE 

The Elmwood 93 

The Globe Hotel 105 

The (Graham 96 

The Grand Hotel 80 

The Ingleside 89 

The Laurel House 101 

The Loxhurst and Cottage 102 

The Rexmere 85 

The Terrace 88 

The Westholm 90 

Upland Farm House and Cottages.. 98 

Villa Belle Aire 87 

Wawanda Inn 82 




LOOKING UP THE WOODLAND VALLEY 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS AND THE ULSTER AND DELA- 
WARE SYSTEM^SUMMER REST AND WHERE TO FIND 
IT— SCENIC BEAUTY AND SANITARY ADVANTAGES— 
THE ONLY ALL-RAIL, STANDARD GAUGE ROUTE AND 
THROUGH CAR LlNE..^Jt-^.^J*-^Jtjt.j^^^^^^jtjtjij^^^jtji 



' It seems to me I'd like to go 
Where bells don 't ring, nor ivhistles blow. 
Nor clocks don't strike nor gongs don't sound. 
And I'd have stillness all around. 

Not real still stillness, but just the trees' 
Low whisperings or the hum of bees. 
Or brooks' faint babbling over stones 
In strangely, softly tangled tones. 

Or maybe a cricket or katydid. 
Or the songs of birds in the hedges hid. 
Or just some such sweet sounds as these. 
To fill a tired heart with ease. 

Sometimes it seems to me I must 

Just quit the city's din and dust 

A nd get out where the sky is blue. 

And say, now, how does it seem to you?" 



SUMMER 
REST. . . 



There is a science of summer rest, and the soon- 
er this fact is reahzed and reckoned with the 
better it will be for all those who live in the 
temperate zones. In the United States the vacation habit has 
now grown chronic and confirmed among all classes. And 
yet it is surprising that so few of these intelligent American 
millions fully comprehend the real lesson of the doctrine of 
rest. Men and women in every walk of life, rich and poor 
alike, hustle along day after day through the busy months of 
each year between store or office and the home or club, in 
quest of the elusive dollar and the happiness and pleasure it 
may bring. Few ever stop to estimate the pace or measure 




A DRIVEWAY IN TWILIGHT PARK 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 9 

the Speed of their activities. It is a restless energy that per- 
vades this land of ours and we rarely spare the time to look 
into the faces of our neighbors at home or abroad, or study 
their methods of life. The frail arteries of our existence are 
continually distended by the pressure of individual effort 
toward the supremacy and conquest over jostling rivals on 
every side. It is an ambitious age in which we live. But 
rather than seek to abate the noble energies and activities 
that so proudly characterize this epoch, shall we not learn to 
glean the fuel with which to feed the consuming fires of this 
glorious ambition, from the ample storehouses of nature in the 
wisest way? The careful conservation of vital force is the 
imperative lesson of the hour. Greater economy in the use 
and control of our bodies and brains is strictly enjoined. 
These houses of clay were not made to run at high pressure 
all the time. Nor will an ample supply of food suffice to re- 
pair all the waste. There must be stated periods of relaxation, 
recreation and absolute rest. Lost strength and vitality can 
be regained in no other way. A breath of Nature, uncontami- 
nated by the dregs of city civilization, is the unfailing panacea. 
The flabby muscles and pale cheeks, the feeble respiration and 
the exhausted brain, all these beckon us away to the green 
hills and valleys. 



» ;^j - ■••■® -^-^^^ 



" Where the long rustling curtains of generous trees 
Hide the town with its cares and its folly; 
Where the low, drowsy song of the loitering bees 
Drowns out the buzz of the trolley. " 





DEEP HOLLOW NOTCH LAKE ON THE WAY TO WESTKILL 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 11 

NEED OF Ai'iother important aspect of the summer rest is 
the absolute need of change; a change of scene, 
■ thought and action. This is a dominant impulse 
in every human breast. No matter how salutary or delight- 
ful the normal environment may be, there is a monotonous 
routine which should be broken in upon. Whether in the line 
of untiring labor, dignified leisure, or consuming idleness, the 
need is the same. We must run away from bricks and mor- 
tar, the noise and dirt of the town and all its pleasures as well 
for a time, and go out among the hills and rocks, the green 
trees and fields, the waving meadows and orchards, the wild 
flowers and the filmy ferns, and bathe in the fresh air and pure 
sunshine of the country, where the brooks and the birds 
and the leaves whisper in loving tryst. To many this is yet 
a strange gospel, but thousands are beginning to realize that 
this summer vacation should bring not only a change of scene 
but a change of habit. In the great stillness of nature, peace 
and health go hand in hand, soothing relaxed muscles with the 
subtle touch of new power, and in the delicious land of day- 
dreams, the brain, sung almost to sleep by the hushed croon- 
ings of the cool breeze among the tree-tops, grows young and 
strong again. In the quiet of the grand cathedral of its Maker, 
even the soul forgets the battles, the down-falls, the cuts and 
scars of life's great contest and becomes something purer, 
stronger and more worthy of its origin. 

In support of this theory of change of air and scene, may 
we not draw a lesson from the robust health and vigor of the 
nomadic Gypsy tribe, who wander from place to place? There 
are also biological laws which may account in some measure 
for the salutary effects of such change. The epoch of man's 
whole existence upon the earth having been so largely domi- 
nated by his roving habits as a savage hunter with no fixed 
place of abode, is it not reasonable to suppose that such habits, 
prevalent for ages, would be likely to leave a lasting impress 
on every cell and fibre of the human frame? It is therefore 
not improbable that a partial renewal of the conditions to which 
his constitution was originally adapted may contribute to a re- 
covery of a normal state of health. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 13 

WHERE TO ^^ thousands this is a momentous question that 
comes up for a new solution with each recur- 

ring season. When one thinks he has reached 

a final conclusion at the end of his vacation by deciding never 
to go to that place again, the intervening winter is very apt to 
dispel the notion, and he either goes back to the same locality 
or begins to wrestle with the question anew. Surely the sub- 
ject is one of vital importance, and yet how common it is to 
consider only two or three of the secondary elements of the 
problem. A hasty comparison of prices, with the scenic and 
social attractions offered, the methods and cost of access and 
the decision is made. Too often this results in absolute failure 
and dissatisfaction, and the victim returns to his home dis- 
gusted with his waste of time and money, not only, but really 
tired out and utterly unfitted for work. The monetary aspect 
of the vacation, essential as it is, should never be allowed to 
overshadow the main object for which rest is actually required. 

What manner of change do I need most? This is the 
great question to decide, and it is the easiest of the whole lot. 
An absolute change of air is the inevitable response which 
comes in asthmatic gasps from the exhausted lungs, half 
clogged by the organic atoms of the polluted city atmosphere. 
What you need is air at first-hand. For months you have been 
breathing a second-hand, warmed-over air whose identity and 
history you were fully content to leave in obscurity, sniffing a 
bit here and there, catching a whiff now and then as it floats 
out to sea for purification. Now you must pack your grip and 
flee to the distilleries of the skies, where the mystic breezes 
fling out their banners of invigorating welcome, and Nature 
sits enthroned to dispense her choicest gifts. And this brings 
us to the consideration of altitude, the hygienic importance of 
which as a factor in the summer vacation, is now so univer- 
sally conceded. 





THE STATE ROAD NEAR MT. PLEASANT. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 15 

THE IMPORTANCE ^^^ years past we have found that 

vigor and tone were imparted by a 
■ ' ■ ■ sojourn at mountain resorts a few 
thousand feet above the sea. First came the exhilarating effect 
and afterward the most positive and potential invigoration, 
which seemed to renew lost tissues and repair old ones. But 
the exact processes were not so easy to explain scientifically. 
It was discovered years ago that the blood of animals living in 
the higher altitudes absorbed more oxygen than those on the 
lower levels. Next, that his blood was richer in the coloring 
matter (haemoglobin), and also that the number of red cor- 
puscles was greatly augmented. Bearing in mind that the 
blood absorbs oxygen in the lungs and transfers it to the 
tissues of the body by means of these red corpuscles, the ad- 
vantages of this increase of oxygen and its tiny carriers is at 
once apparent. The microbes of disease, which may have 
secured lodgment by any grievous unsanitary conditions of 
life, or by the exhausting cares and labor of business, are thus 
displaced and destroyed by this better nutrition of the body, 
and you are far better fortified to withstand any future as- 
saults of this destructive nature. Such is an outline of the 
latest theory on this subject, which has now been accepted by 
the best medical authorities. And the practical lesson of it 
all is, beyond any question, that the best summer resort for 
the average dweller of the cities and plains in every hygienic 
aspect of the case, is the higher altitudes, the mountainous 
regions of the country. 

Careful investigation has revealed other and more im- 
portant ingredients in this mountain prescription. The cool 
air of the inland hills is a far different article from that found 
at the sea shore. Instead of the saturated product of moist- 
ure and condensation, the air is dry and strong from the 
rarefying processes peculiar to the laboratories of the skies. 




THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 17 

THE CATSKILL ^^ ^^^ observant reader may already have 
MOUNTAINS surmised from the perusal of the preced- 

ing pages, all reference to mountains in 
this little work means specifically the Catskill Mountains, the 
historic Catskills; the most picturesque and healthful moun- 
tain region on the globe, with its marvelous wealth of scenic 
charms, its fame is securely enshrined on the scroll of destiny. 
Made in a day, the towering crags grow in beauty and 
grandeur as the cycles of eternity roll silently on. Ever elo- 
quent in their Creator's praise, they reach out a beckoning 
hand to enervated men and women the world over; to the 
discouraged and faltering worker, the unfortunate idler and 
successful man of business. All alike may here stand above 
the turmoils and the irksome pleasures of life and compare the 
boasted achievements of men with the mighty spectacle of 
earth and sky, which now fills the soul with awe and im- 
presses one anew with his own insignificance. 

WHERE AND WHAT Little need be said perhaps concern- 

ing the location and structure of this 
most interesting group of mountains. 
For thirty years and more the region has been before the pub- 
lic as a summer resort and thousands of admiring visitors have 
journeyed to and fro each year. But there are many other 
thousands who have never yet seen the locality, and for these 
this book is mainly written. The modern processes of the 
pictorial art have indeed made some of the scenery familiar 
the world over, and with much pleasing and artistic accuracy. 
Phis cannot, however, be said so unreservedly of the vast mass 
of descriptive matter which has appeared in the public press 
from time to time. Much of this was mere imaginary drivel, 
misleading and fictitious, betraying the writer's unfamiliarity 
with his subject. In fact, one of our modern encyclopedias 
locates the entire range in Greene county, while it really traver- 
ses large parts of Ulster, Delaware and Schoharie counties as 
well, Ulster having perhaps the largest share. Another ency- 
clopedic writer says the range is drained chiefly by the Cats- 
kill creek, while the fact is, that stream reaches only the east- 
ern slope and does not begin to equal in importance the Esopus 
creek, which rises forty miles in the interior, not to mention 
the Schoharie creek, or the branches of the Delaware river. 




ON THH ROAD NEAR MT. TREMPER. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 19 

These mountains are a spur of the great Appalachian sys- 
tem which extends along the Atlantic coast from Maine to 
Alabama. They cover a superficial area of some 2,400 square 
miles, and their general trend is from southeast to northwest 
or at right angles to every other group in this system. Coming 
up the Hudson, they burst into vision about ninety miles from 
the mouth of that river, and from eight to ten miles from the 
western shore at Kingston. Here they rise abruptly from the 
base over 3,000 feet in the air for miles along the eastern face, 
there being innumerable peaks, in the interior, three of which 
are over 4,000 feet in height. These peaks vary materially in 
physical structure and plastic form, and are geologically unlike 
ordinary mountain formations. Instead of the usual folds or 
fragments of arches, the rock is composed of piled up strata 
in the original horizontal position. 

HOW TH EY ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ what period of the earth's 

history these massive crags were formed, 

WERE FORMED, -g ^^-^^ ^ question for the geologist of the 

future. The theory of a high plateau or mass of elevations, is 
still adhered to by the best authorities, including Prof. Arnold 
Guyot, the learned scientist, who made more careful investiga- 
tion and personal examination of the Catskills than any other 
man of modern times. He believed that in prehistoric ages the 
earth contained tenfold more water than now, and therefore in 
that antediluvian epoch, water was the mighty agent in shap- 
ing the earth's surface. Glacial action is clearly indicated all 
through the range, some thirteen distinct visitations of this 
mighty propelling force, peculiar to the early ages of the world, 
having been traced. Other writers incline to the theory of up- 
heaval from volcanic or other causes. But even they must re- 
sort to the doctrine of erosion as a subsequent or final process, 
in order to account for the various phenomenal forms here 
presented. The vast masses of conglomerate present all the 
conditions of quicksand as it existed just prior to its conver- 
sion into stone. 

Thus at variance in trend, and other geological features, 
with the parent system, the Catskills must be regarded as 
anomalous also in plastic formation, being due to the erosive 
forces, and not to the ordinary process which has folded and 
shaped the other parts of the system. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 21 

TOPOGRAPHICAL ^^^^^ ^^^ divided into two groups by 
the Esopus creek. The northern group 

Hes between the Esopus and Catskill 

creeks and extends from southeast to northwest in the form of 
an irregular parallelogram. This is shut in between two high 
border chains, ten or fifteen miles apart. That on the south- 
west is known as the central chain, or backbone of the entire 
group, extending from Overlook Mountain on the east to 
Mount Utsayantha on the west, a distance of over thirty-five 
miles. The other is the northeast border chain. The south- 
east end is closed by the short chain of High Peak; the north- 
western by the high swell of plateaus which divide the head- 
waters of the Delaware and Susquehanna from those of the 
Schoharie and the Hudson. A striking peculiarity of this 
northern group is, that while its western end seems buried in 
the general plateaus of western New York, the mountains 
there rising but moderately above their base, its eastern end 
stands isolated on three sides by deep and broadly open valleys, 
projecting in all its height as a mighty promontory to within ten 
miles of the Hudson. This presents an imposing scene from 
that river. The Schoharie creek and its tributaries furnish 
the entire drainage for the interior highlands of the Catskills 
proper. This drainage which sends the waters all the way 
around to the Mohawk, to come back by the Hudson, after a 
course of 175 miles, to within ten miles of their starting point 
is certainly remarkable, and shows a very peculiar physical 
structure. 



"You fellers from the country — you keep aiuay from toivn. 
If you don't ivant to unsettle things and get us upside down: 
For you alivays leave a memory of the meadoivs and the streams 
An' I straightway get to wishin' and to fish in' in my dreams. 
You fellers from the country — when you strike >ne at tny desk. 
The room begins to blossom an ' the street looks picturesque 
And the roar in' of the city, ivith its engines an' its bells. 
Seems to melt into the music of the mountains and the dells. 
You fellers from the country — you get so much of life — 
So little of its sorrows, of its tears and of its strife. 
That I want to get off with you and just riot in your joy 
And wade in your cool branches, like I used to when a boy. " 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 23 

ORIGIN OF ^^^ precise origin of the name "Catskill" is 
^. ...^ somewhat obscure. Some writers aver that it 

N A IV! E 

was derived from the catamounts which in- 
fested the region, and Irving was among those sponsors. But 
there is scant authority or reason for this assumption. The 
name is found spelled in numerous ways in the ancient records, 
such as "Kaatskills," "Kaaterskill," "Katskill," "Cauterskill," 
"Cautskill," etc. It is believed to have been first applied dur- 
ing the Dutch domination over two centuries ago. And if this 
assumption is correct, Kaatskill or Kaaterskill would seem to 
be the proper orthography. The "kill" being Dutch for 
channel or creek. "Kaat" is also Dutch for cat, but the un- 
usual abundance of the feline species, either wild or domestic, 
is not well established. The Indians are said to have called 
the mountains "Ontiora," meaning hills of the sky, where the 
Great Spirit of Manitou dwelt and ruled the elements of earth 
and sky. And there seems no very good reason for ever hav- 
ing abandoned that poetic and appropriate title. 

"Summer is here, and the morning is gay. 
Let us be children together to-day. 
Sorrow's a myth, and our troubles but seem. 
The past is an echo, the future a dream. " 



PRIMEVAL 
HISTORY. 



Concerning the early history of this charming 
mountain region or its people, the records are 
strangely silent and incomplete. Even the 
voice of tradition ventures cautiously in the corridors of the 
remote and prehistoric past. But this only serves to invest the 
locality with new enchantment and interest, and the embers 
of speculation are readily fanned into life by such breezes from 
an unknown realm of romance. 

Whether it was Henry Hudson, Verrazano, Gomez or some 
earlier navigator, who first sailed up the Hudson river, which 
was then called " Cohohatatia," by the Indians, meaning river of 
the mountains, is now open to question. But it is sufficient to 
note here that when Hudson first ventured up the noble stream 
in 1609 in his quaint Dutch ship, the attractions of the Catskills 
were such that he was induced to cast anchor and make a short 
inspection. He was received with marked hospitality by the 
Iroquois Indians, then in possession of the region. Into their 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 25 

rude bark hut, which was stored with corn and beans, they 
took the curious navigator and his small party of sailors. Upon 
the ground floor mats were spread in their honor, and here 
they partook of food from a large wooden bowl or tray. The 
flesh of a fattened dog, which had been killed for the feast, 
was among the tempting viands prepared for the white vis- 
itors, who seem to have been in no hurry to return to their ship. 
The record then closes with this quaint, aboriginal scene and 
does not re-open until sixty-nine years later; leaving us to 
assume that the region remained in the peaceful possession of 
the red men during that long period. But this was the dawn 
of the Dutch occupation. On the eighth of July, 1678, the pur- 
chase of a large portion of this mountain region was effected 
by a company of Dutch and English gentlemen. The confer- 
ence was held at the Stadt Huis in Albany, where Mahak- 
Neminaw, the ruling Indian chief, and six leading men of his 
tribe had gathered for the purpose. Various trinkets and 
trifles of stupendous value in the eyes of the noted red men 
were given them, and the title, with its wonderful hiero- 
glyphics, was passed. Soon after that the aboriginal owners 
began to disappear, retreating to other parts of the State. 
Their successors in the Catskills do not seem to have left many 
important records of their occupancy which can be relied 
upon. But in place of such history we are endowed with a 
wealth of Indian lore and Dutch tradition which have made 
the region an enchanted shadow-land of legend and romance. 



' Queen of all lovely rivers, lustrous queen 
Of flowing waters in our sweet new lands, 
Rippling through sunlight to the ocean sands, 
Within a smiling valley, and between 
Romantic shores of silvery summer green; 
Memorial of wild days and savage bands. 
Singing the patient deeds of patriotic hands. 
Crooning the golden glorious years forseen. " 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 27 

SCENIC "If being the best part of a mile in the air, and 
having views of farms and houses at your feet, 
with rivers looking Hke ribbons, and mountains 
seeming to be haystacks of green grass under you, gives any 
satisfaction to a man, I can recommend the spot. When I first 
came into the woods to live I used to have weak spells, and I 
felt lonesome; then I would go into the Catskills to spend a 
few days on that hill to look at the ways of man." These are 
the immortal words of "Leatherstocking," that most original 
character in fiction so aptly characterized by Carlyle as "the 
one melodious synopsis of man and nature." Standing half 
way between savage and civilized life, hear him as he con- 
tinues: "The river was in sight for seventy miles under my 
feet, looking like a curled shaving, though it was eight long 
miles to its banks. I saw the hills in the Hampshire grants, 
the Highlands of the river, and all that God had done, or man 
can do, as far as the eye could reach." 

Who can hope to equal the realistic eloquence of this 
simple description? See the mighty crags with their gigantic 
ribs of rock, protruding here and there from the flesh of the 
mountain like Titanic fortresses against the assaults of ages; 
their massive slopes clothed in Cyclopean mantles of living 
green over which the sunshine and shadows of buried cen- 
turies have chased each other in cosmic glee. These yawning 
canyons, dark, deep and cool, where the shimmering trout 
streams babble among the gnarled roots and mossy boulders, 
to the echoing refrain of the lichen-clad walls of precipitous 
rock. Listen to the mellow cadence of Nature's breath fresh 
from the verdant throat of the mountain. There is naught to 
disturb the peaceful harmony of this Arcadian realm. See up 
yonder, at the head of the gorge in which you stand, that 
slender scarf of sparkling water, wearied at last with its wind- 
ing career for many a mountain mile, or its dreamy life among 
the stones and roots of quiet pools, now leaping madly, beauti- 
fully over the jutting rock, down, down the precipice hundreds 
of feet, breaking into a sheeny shower of fleecy foam, sending 
up a crystal spray, which bedews the surrounding foliage and 
paints the rainbow across the slanting sunbeams. Or, climb 
to the breezy crest that pierces the clouds and bathe in the 
filmy vapor that flits up the mountain side and scuds past your 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 29 

face on the wings of the wind. Wrapped now in mist as in 
mid-ocean, anon the veil is hfted, the sun breaks through and 
you stand entranced at the marvelous beauty of the checkered 
valley which slumbers beneath your feet. Or, at daybreak, as 
the sun peers over the rim of the eastern hills and irradiates 
the sleeping landscape with amber and gold, painting in 
gorgeous hues the rolling, tumbling masses of cloud far down 
over the quiet valley. And anon as the vapor lifts and scatters 
before the rays of the advancing sun, the scene becomes in- 
describably beautiful. Watch again, as the angry little midday 
showers gather, break and finish their noisy career, far below 
the placid sunshine of the mountain top which surrounds you. 
Or choose some one of the colossal boulders that lie strewn 
around as though dropped like a pebble from some mighty 
hand, and watch the gathering fury of a storm, which no man 
need ever attempt to portray. And finally, in the evening 
twilight, when 

"The western sky has trimmed its skirts ivith ruffles all the ivay 
And bias stripes of salmon pink and heliotrope and gray, " 

as the receding sun floods the earth in tranquil glory and 
paints his transient banners on the easel of Night, you are lost 
in silent admiration. 

"Splendors and blossoms and beauty, 

And a charm that cannot be told. 
For the days are exquisite poems 

Bound in the blue and the gold. 
Of the cloudless sky and the sunshine. 

And written in measures of light. 
They are full of the magical rhythm 

Which sweeps through the day and the night. 
Oh! the lyrics of dewy morning, 

And the sonnets of golden noon, 
And the love-songs ivritten in silver, 

That flow from the mystical moon. 
Oh! the beautiful star-lit nocturnes. 

We mortals have called the night. 
That are played in deep, minor measures. 

When the world has grown weary of light. 
Oh! the gloriotcs music and rhythm 

Of life — and the world — and the sky. 
As they blend in a harmony blissful, 

That floats to the Throne on High. ' 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 31 

HOW TO REACH ^^^^ ^^ "^ longer a problem of any 
_ moment, and few will need any explicit 

THE CATSKILLS. j . a j ^ ^u 

directions. And yet there are uncom- 
fortable, undesirable routes and methods which may easily be 
avoided by a little study of this book, which is largely devoted 
to the details of the best route, the only through car line and 
all-rail connection. 

For some fifty years after its summer charms were first 
discovered, the region remained practically inaccessible. 
There was a long and tedious stage-ride from the river, over 
an atrocious road and up the steep mountain-side at a snail's 
pace, which was often attended with some danger, and it took 
a man of vigor and endurance to stand the trip. The steep 
and stony miles, the jaded horses, and the lumbering old stages 
were pretty apt to awaken sympathies and feelings not wholly 
akin to the picturesque sublimity on every side, leaving scant 
time or mood to indulge his love for mountain grandeur. 
Invalids, who would be most benefited by the change of air and 
scene were unable to make the ascent, the effects of which 
were so unlikely to be palliated or overcome by the scant 
facilities for accommodation and comfort then afforded on the 
mountain. But this was the condition of affairs in the Cats- 
kills, with slight improvements, down to 1870, when the iron- 
horse began to sniff the air of the hills. Here was a charm- 
ing summer resort wholly undeveloped. The wild and 
most charming region, lying in the counties of Ulster and 
Delaware, was largely unexplored and completely inaccessible 
except to the sturdy hunters and bark-men. The great chain 
of mountains had never been entered on this side where the 
great popular and easy approach for the entire range was 
destined to be. The giant Slide Mountain crag, which had 
overshadowed every other peak for countless ages, was practi- 
cally unknown, and its superior height quite unsuspected. 
Thus the varied magnificence of this entrancing region which 
has now so greatly enhanced the fame of the Catskills was yet 
to be revealed. 



«H-^di5f^ 



<s 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 33 

THE ULSTER &. The construction of the Ulster and 

rMT. A,.,Ar,.r r, a . . n^A^' Dclawarc line was begun in 1866. 
DELAWARE RAILROAD. r> j i i j ^ i 

rroceeding slowly and cautiously 

for a time, the iron horse did not really get very far into the 
mountains until four years later. Even then the project was 
generally considered wild and ill-advised, with certain failure 
at the end. But the projectors had faith in the final result and 
kept stretching out the rails until they reached and crossed 
the mountains. 

Nature may never have dreamed that man would stretch a 
railroad through this lovely valley, and at times there has been 
some question as to whether she had been fully reconciled to 
the desecration. But the engineers found a natural pass here, 
crooked and tortuous though it was, and they followed it up 
in laying out the line of the road, avoiding any aggressive 
liberties with the native conditions, as far as possible. Many 
heavy grades were encountered, and there was a cantankerous 
mountain creek, with a whole brood of wayward and excitable 
little tributaries pouring into it from every gorge and gulch 
which had to be dealt with in a dignified and earnest manner. 
These were normally quiet and inoffensive, of course; the 
speckled trout disported lazily in the crystal water which 
glittered in the noonday sun like silver threads in the woof 
of the mountain, and rippled in sweet refrain on its winding, 
woodland way to the river. But when the floods came, these 
placid and pretty rills swelled into roaring torrents in a few 
hours, tumbling into the main creek, which in turn, flooded the 
narrow valley and swept everything down before it. Of 
course, there was nothing about the railway that would be 
likely to exempt it from this inevitable rule, or evoke any 
sympathy from these arteries of the mountains. So the en- 
gineers acted squarely on the defensive and built the road on 
that theory, locating the line with utmost care and building in 
the firmest manner. The best materials were used in every 
case, and the best methods employed to secure stability, 
security, safety, efficiency and comfort. The roadbed has 
recently been materially straightened and leveled, and the 
curves perfected by a competent corps of engineers. This was 
made necessary by the increased traflfic and greater speed of 
trains, which also called for heavier rails and ties and modern 
3 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 35 

steel bridges, all of which have been supplied over the entire 
line. Several new and attractive station buildings have been 
erected, and important additions and improvements to the roll- 
ing stock and general equipment are continually being made. 
The new passenger locomotives are now heavier and more 
powerful than formerly and they are constructed from the 
latest improved designs for speed and efficiency. The new 
coaches which are added each year are elegant models of com- 
fort and convenience from the best shops in the country. 
Nothing that will conduce to the comfort and pleasure of 
travelers has been omitted in the equipment of The Ulster & 
Delaware system. It therefore stands to-day second to none 
in security of roadbed, safety of appliances, general efficiency 
and comfort of equipment. 

The completion of the road of course proved the great 
factor in the development of the Catskills as a popular summer 
resort. A new impetus was imparted to the mountain board- 
ing business, and hotels, large and small, began to rise here 
and there in the valleys and on the mountain slopes. It 
opened a new section of the range, which rivaled and ever sur- 
passed in beauty any other portion, while the entire region at 
once became easily accessible. Luxurious parlor and day 
coaches are now attached to the trains, and the most infirm 
and debilitated may thus enjoy the benefits of this great nat. 
ural sanitarium. 

" The ivhite clouds are like pictures in a breathin' 

frame o' blue, 
An' the sunbeams are a shoot in' all their silver 

arrows through. 
An' its June-time in the country, an' its June-time 

in the town. 
An' the mockin' birds are singin' and the blossoms 

rainin ' down ! 
It's June-time in the Catskills, and happy folks 

are ive. 
With the brook a-dashin', splashin', and the winds 

a-blowin' free ! 
An' the sun is climbin' higher, an' the nights are 

full o' moon, 
An' a feller's soul is dancin' to the melodies o' 

June!" 



K 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 37 

INGSTON CITY, THE that famous old Hudson 
STA R T OF THE river landing of former 
ALL- R A I L ROUTE, ^^^'^^ which has now been 

restored and greatly im- 
BEGINNING AT ^^^^^^^ t^jg mountain track 
KINGSTON POINT, ^f jhe Ulster & Delaware 
line never ends until the entire Catskill range has been 
crossed, and the city of Oneonta, in Otsego county, 108 miles 
from this eastern terminus is reached. Here at the Point, 
passengers from the elegant and popular Day Line steamers 
may board The Ulster & Delaware trains for any point in 
the range, stepping directly from their palatial decks to the 
cars. The transfer of baggage is quickly effected, and there 
is no change of cars between the river and the hills. The 
start is made over the river shoal and up the Rondout creek 
for two miles, when 

RONDOUT STATION is reached. This was formerly 
a village, and in 1614 the Dutch established a settlement here. 
It is the river port of the city of Kingston, which was incor- 
porated in 1872. The steamer Mary Powell (day line) and the 
steamers of the Central Hudson Steamboat Company (night 
line) make daily trips between this port and New York. Con- 
nection is also made here by ferry to Rhinecliff with New 
York Central trains. 

Leaving Rondout Station, the train winds gracefully up 
the grade from tide level and intersects the West Shore Rail- 
road near the center of the city at 

UNION STATION. This is an important station of the 
West Shore, Wallkill Valley and Ulster & Delaware Railroads, 
and during the season of summer Catskill Mountain traffic, 
this is the great diverging point for the mountain region. 
The fast Catskill Mountain special trains on the West Shore 
line are here transferred to the Ulster & Delaware track, 
where powerful engines stand hissing and throbbing, impa- 
tiently waiting for the mountain run. 

From this station, looking directly north, an imposing view 
of the mountains is presented. The peaks in sight are the 
famous Overlook on the left, with Plattekill, High Peak, or 
Mount Lincoln, the Kaaterskill and South Mountain crags on 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 39 

toward the right. The highest of these is Mount Lincoln, 3,664 
feet, and the next in height is the Overlook, 3,150 feet above 
tide. The large house near the sky is the Overlook Mountain 
House. The next toward the right is Hotel Kaaterskill, and 
the last is the old Catskill Mountain House. 

But there is barely time to inspect this view when your 
train pulls out for the mountains and is whirling rapidly over 
the lovely fringe of fertile lowland in the northern bounds of 
the city. You pass within a few rods of the famous old "Sen- 
ate House," where New York State was born, which is in 
sight on the left, soon after you pass under the second street 
bridge. It was built in 1676, partially burned by the British in 
1777, and is now owned and kept by the State, having a large 
and interesting collection of ancient relics and curiosities. The 
Esopus creek is next crossed, and the train plunges boldly up 
the southern slope of the picturesque and beautiful Ulster and 
Delaware valley, which affords a charming panorama of 
mountain scenery through its entire length. The ascent here 
is gradual and continues, all the way to 

WEST HURLEY, ten miles from Kingston 
Point and 530 feet above the river. This is a 
small hamlet a few rods to the left. 
Woodstock is a much larger hamlet, at the base 
of Overlook Mountain, five miles north, and stages are waiting 
to convey passengers to that region, which is very pretty and 
popular with summer visitors, having a large hotel, numerous 
boarding houses, three fine churches, and many stores. The 
Overlook is a very imposing crag as seen from West Hurley 
station, and those who set out to make the ascent will find a 
fairly good carriage road most of the way, and one of the most 
charming and extended views from the crest to be found in 
the entire range. 

OLIVE BRANCH, thirteen miles from Kingston 
Point and 514 feet above tide water, is the next station 
on this level stretch (Ash ton Post Office). The aspect 
is now pastoral and peaceful. The wayside marsh is 
thickly dotted with wild plants and flowers, especially iris 
and lilies, which bloom in succession during the summer, pre- 
senting an attractive variety of floral beauty, tempting plant 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 41 

lovers from the train at times. The region here is supplied 
with many modest boarding houses where one may revel in 
the air of the foothills with great informality and at low rates. 
Temple Pond is an aquatic attraction, lying at the foot of Big 
Toinje Mountain, about one hundred feet above the station. 
It covers about one hundred acres normally and affords boat- 
ing and fishing facilities. 

BROWN'S STATION, is three miles beyond, 
elevation above tide 527 feet. This is the location of 
the great Ashokan Reservoir, now under construction, 
and the entire section surrounding this station has 
been acquired by New York city and the boarding business 
at this point eliminated. High Point and the Wittenberg 
range are now looming up in the distance ahead. A mile-and- 
a-half south is Winchell's Falls on the Esopus, and just below, 
the stream flows through a picturesque rocky gorge. 

Soon after leaving Brown's the train rounds a graceful 
curve to the right for two miles, and the Esopus creek is again 
encountered, for the first since leaving Kingston. The stream 
here divides above the bridge, forming a pretty little wooded 
island. Hereafter the track and this wayward current of 
mountain water maintain companionship for twenty miles and 
more, bending in and out, and crossing and recrossing the 
waters as the topography of the valley demands, though not 
implicitly following its every freak and whim. Between this 
point and Kingston, it winds its weary way over precipitous 
rocks, through wild ravines and alluvial and fertile meadows 
for many a mile far to the south. The train now pulls up at 

BRODHEAD'S BRIDGE Station, nineteen miles 
from Kingston Point and 502 feet above tide. Many are 
attracted here by the surrounding landscape, with its 
diversity of broad meadows, towering mountain peaks, 
and shimmering trout streams. The little hamlet is scattered 
along the wooded banks of the creek near the base of High 
Point. Pine Island, which here parts the waters of the Esopus 
is a favorite spot for a hammock and a dream, with the 
rhythmic swirl and gurgle of the rushing waters on either side, 
and the symphonic whispers of spreading hemlocks overhead. 
Four gamey streams wend their way through forest and field 
in different directions. One of these leaps over the ledge, not 




SUNSET ROCK, NEAR KAATERSKILL 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 43 

far distant in a sparkling cascade known as "Bridal Veil Falls." 
A more extended waterfall, however, is Bishop Falls, two miles 
down the Esopus, a favorite afternoon ramble with many. 

SHOKAN, 539 feet above tide, is the next stop after a 
mile run. It is one of the old Indian names that have 
been retained in the geographical nomenclature of 
this region; the older settlement which antedates 
the railroad being a mile towards the east. It is a pleasant 
hamlet with churches, schools, stores, and many boarding 
houses where hundreds of city people pass the summer delight- 
fully and at moderate cost. The famous "High Point" peak, 
3,098 feet toward the sky, looms up grandly now on the left, 
in a south-westerly direction. This is the most southerly peak 
of the Catskills, and the view from its summit is very extended. 
The ascent is no longer difficult, there being a well marked 
road over half the way. Good carriage roads lead out from 
Shokan in different directions to interesting points. Among 
those well worth visiting are the celebrated Peekamoose Lake 
and the "Gulf." The former is a beautiful strip of mountain 
water where the Rondout creek flows through one of the most 
charming glens in the world. Speaking of this spot, a recent 
writer and artist says: "Nothing else in the Catskills ap- 
proaches it in its peculiar type. For a mile it is a succession of 
impressive pictures, with cascades and waterfalls innumerable, 
living pictures of living water." 

Looking west from Shokan station, a crescent of lofty 
mountain peaks will be seen. That on the right is the Wit- 
tenberg, 3,778 feet, the next is Mount Cornell, 3,681 feet high. 
Some two miles beyond this chain is the famous Slide Moun- 
tain, the king of the range, 4,205 feet in the air. In the same 
locality are Peekamoose, 3,875 feet. Table Mountain, 3,865 
feet high, and several others. It is the wildest and most inter- 
esting group in the entire range, and it can only be reached by 
way of The Ulster & Delaware Railroad. Leaving Shokan 
now, the train winds up the valley for three miles, re-crossing 
the Esopus at a broad bend and halting briefly at 

BOICEVILLE, twenty-two miles from Kingston 
Point and 609 feet above tide, a way station with many 
farm attractions. The mountains are now encroach- 
ing more and more upon the narrow valley. 



■»> .---.TV^v'-^ 




dlLCl WdH. 

M' 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 45 

COLD BROOK, one mile beyond, is another way 
station, if your train happens to stop there. The 
Esopus rushes madly by under a new iron bridge, 
on the right, bordered by a tangled mass of wild 
flowering vines which send up their fragrance to greet 
the traveler in the car window while he listens to the chatter- 
ing roar of the stream. Following the Esopus now for a mile 
along the base of Mount Pleasant, with Mount Tobias and 
Mount Tremper in the eastern background, across the 
meadows and orchards which intervene, the stream suddenly 
bends away and out of sight for a time, and the train soon 
afterwards stops at 

OUNT PLEASANT, twenty-six miles from 
Kingston Point and 713 feet above the river. This 
is in the midst of a most attractive and very popular 
summer boarding region, with numerous hotels and 
resting places, scattered here and there throughout the 
charming valley. Roads lead away among the romantic foot- 
hills of towering mountains to quiet little houses nestling in 
placid nooks among the brooks and bridges which dominate 
the locality. Of these there are some forty which receive 
their guests at this station. 

One is here surrounded by high mountains that rise 
abruptly and aggressively, although the ascents are not diffi- 
cult. The view from Mount Tremper, especially its western 
spur, is interesting and the trail is comparatively easy. The 
Esopus creek winds in and out, and lingers lovingly among 
the little patches of mountain meadow ; and visitors are always 
delighted with this bit of the Ulster and Delaware valley. 

But the train now speeds on this northerly course for 
about three miles, barely finding room between the assertive 
old creek and the wagon road for its track, so aggressive are 
the mountains on either side. 

PHOENICIA. This is one of the most important 
stations on the line. You are now twenty-eight miles 
from the river and 794 feet above it, with lofty moun- 
tain peaks on every hand. It is the entrance to the 
famous Stony Clove Canyon, and the southern terminus of the 
Stony Clove and Kaaterskill Branch of the Ulster & Delaware 
system. You are now well into the mountains and the 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 47 

scenery is wild and picturesque. It is late in the day when 
the sun peers over the eastern skyline on Mount Tremper, 
and comparatively early in the afternoon when the western 
shadows begin to envelop the little hamlet. Meanwhile your 
engine, having taken a fresh drink of mountain water, gets 
the signal and skips off up the valley with a business-like 
snort, winding now closely along the left bank of the Esopus, 
which lessens in volume as the region of its source is 
approached. But the little valley grows in wildness and 
beauty with every mile, and the mountains become higher 
and grander. Ever and anon you wonder how the rocky 
wall ahead is to be avoided, but the engine finds the way on- 
ward. A mile up the track is Woodland Valley, opening on the 
left. It is about nine miles long and reaches to the base of the 
Wittenberg, Mount Cornell and Slide Mountain. Not in all the 
Catskills is there a more picturesque and charming wildwood 
pass than this. Nature has here been largely and admirably 
left to herself, and her sublime simplicity is truly enchanting. 
It was formerly known as "Snyder Hollow," and of course there 
is a pretty stream with cascades, little rustic bridges and trout, 
and poetry all the way. Mounts Sheridan, Sherrill and North 
Dome now soar grandly toward the sky on the right, with other 
peaks of various local names coming into view in succession 
as the train proceeds. You soon reach the pretty Shandaken 
Valley where the mountains begin to recede in the distant 
background, giving place to the more pastoral features of 
broader meadows, bending orchards and sloping foothills, with 
little farm buildings here and there. The big Westkill Moun- 
tain, 3,900 feet high, at length appears in the distance on the 
right and the valley again grows narrow. 

SHANDAKEN, at an altitude of 1,068 feet, is thirty- 
three miles from the Hudson. This pretty and most 
appropriate Indian name means " rapid water." Shan- 
daken has long been one of the most popular summer 
regions in the Catskills, and it is no small boast for city visitors 
to speak proudly of having summered here, as many hundreds 
do year after year. The scenery is varied and beautiful, 
the streams numerous and gamey, and the air excellent. 
There are two large hotels within a few rods of the station and 
many smaller ones scattered all about. There is room for hun- 




A RUSTIC SCENE BETWEEN GRAND GORGE AND SOUTH GILBOA. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 49 

dreds in and about the hamlet itself, and there are stages in 
waiting to convey many others miles away to popular resorts 
in Bushnellville, Westkill, Lexington, Spruceton and other 
tributary regions, through charming canyons and cloves, and 
over fair mountain roads. Up the clove to Bushnellville and on 
a pretty lake in Echo Notch is a lovely six mile ride, with the 
swift-flowing Bushkill stream babbling and tumbling along the 
wayside, and ever and anon disputing with you regarding 
the roadway, which is here treated with scant courtesy by the 
towering old crags. 

BIG INDIAN, thirty-seven miles from Kingston Point 
and 1,212 feet above the river. The ascent to this point 
has been very gradual most of the way, but now you 
look ahead and realize that the radical climb is about 
to begin. You seem walled in by mountain crags on every 
side and you may well wonder how the train will manage to 
reach the summit, nearly 700 feet above, and take only three 
miles to do it. The deep valley comes to an end a short dis- 
tance ahead and the rails can no longer evade the steep moun- 
tain slope. 

While you have been wrestling with these little details of 
further progress, that you will find so nicely solved by the con- 
structing engineers of The Ulster & Delaware line a few min- 
utes hence, tourists for Slide Mountain and that charming re- 
gion had been climbing into the stages with their traps and 
luggage for that eleven-mile ride, or less, depending upon the 
destination. This is the station for the Slide and the Big Indian 
Valley, the most entrancing and delightful canyon which can- 
not be extolled too highly nor painted in too glowing colors. 
Nature has here wrought with marvelous skill and design, and 
there is beauty in every line. The entire valley is an ideal 
place for summer cottage life amid the placid charms of wild- 
wood and forest. No visitor of the Catskills should fail to ride, 
or wheel or walk through this lovely valley. One of the sources 
of the Esopus sends its crystal water winding through this 
meadow bottom at its own sweet will, regardless of roads and 
all other artificial structures. In this the "speckled beauties" 
disport in goodly numbers, as they do even more abundantly 
in the famous Neversink region, which is also reached from 
this valley, and lies beyond the Slide. 



50 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

An extra engine is usually added to the heavier trains 
here for the hills, and while these powerful motors are gather- 
ing forces for the climb a romantic bit of Indian tradition may 
be of interest. 

"Big Indian" was a stalwart red man of this locality^ 
seven feet in height. His tribal name was "Winnisook." 
Like all bad Indians who got the chance, he fell in love with a 
pretty white maiden of the adjacent plains, named Gertrude 
Molyneaux. But she finally married Joe Bundy, a rival suitor 
of her own race. The alliance proved unhappy however, and 
the young wife was tenderly reminded of what might have been 
had she married the gallant and dusky warrior of the woods. 




This feeling finally culminated in a transfer of her affections 
and person to him. But the climax of Joe Bundy's revenge 
soon came. While with a company of maurauders on a foray 
of cattle-stealing from the Dutch farmers, Winnisook was seen 
by the outraged husband, who promptly drew his trusty bead 
and inflicted a fatal wound remarking to his comrades, "I think 
the best way to civilize the yellow serpent is to let daylight 
into his black heart." The dusky giant was afterward found 
dead standing upright in the hollow of a big pine near the spot. 
His faithful widow, learning of the tragedy, hastened to the 
scene, where she fell upon the body in frantic grief, and spent 
the rest of her life near Winnisook's grave. The stump of the 
old pine is said to have been covered by the railway embank- 
ment. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 51 

But the train is already curving out from the station, you 
look skyward and see the Grand Hotel with towers near the 
summit and you know at once by the conclusive snorts and 
groans proceeding from the engines, that you are going up-hill, 
for the grade is about 150 feet per mile. The charming Pine 
Hill valley, with its stream, its road and an occasional house 
far down below, make a fascinating picture. 

PINE HILL Station, forty miles from Kingston Point 
and 1660 feet above the river, is here perched on the 
steep slope of Belle Ayr Mountain. Hundreds take 
the stages which are assembled in great array for the 
short ride down the hill for the charming little village, one of 
the most picturesque in the range. 

The place presents a most attractive appearance from the 
train, accounting in some measure for its continued popularity 
with a very large class who have made it their regular summer 
abode for years. Nearly every house has summer visitors, and 
there is a degree of informality about the atmosphere not 
always so prevalent at other resorts, which is satisfactory and 
enjoyable to the average guest there. The northerly source of 
the Esopus is here, up Birch creek valley, and with that stream 
we must now part company, as the drainage from this section 
of the range will hereafter flow from the summit westward, to 
the Delaware instead of the Hudson river. 

The air-line distance to the summit is not over half-a-mile, 
but there are 226 feet to climb and the track curves sharply 
around the arcs of a double horseshoe for three times that dis- 
tance. You see the engines laboring heavily as they almost 
double up on the train, and the front end of the coach is 
visibly higher than the rear. But while watching these novel 
features of modern engineering, don't forget to look backward 
down the valley, for the view from this mountain breastwork 
is charming indeed. At length you will note that the motors 
are breathing more freely and steadily as the Summit is ap- 
proached. While the whistle sounds, there will be time to 
admire the handsome cottages in Highmount Park on the 
right, and perhaps some of the hotels and summer homes on 
Belle Ayr slope to the left. But you have now reached the 
summit of The Ulster & Delaware track, 1,889 feet above tide 
which is 



52 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

GRAND HOTEL STATION, forty-two miles 
from the river, and a most important summer station 
it is. The Grand Hotel is less than half a mile up 
the hill and in plain sight. It stands on a command- 
ing terrace of Monka Hill Mountain, and on the dividing line 
between Ulster and Delaware counties. From it the view of 
mountain and valley is superb, rivaled only by the crest of the 
mountain itself in the rear, to which the ascent is short and 
easy, bringing one 2,489 feet in the air with a view free from 
obstruction on every side. Toward the south is Slide Moun- 
tain, barely overtopping its aspiring neighbors, with the lovely 
valley through which you came, in the foreground ; toward 
the west are farms and hamlets of Delaware, and far below 
the shelving rocks on which you stand is the green valley of 
virgin forest; and toward the north and east are mountains 
piled on mountains. The Belle Ayr slope, here known as 
"Highmount," is dotted here and there with pretty cottages in 
a park of 1,500 mountain acres, with an average elevation of 
over 2,000 feet. The region also abounds in interesting drives 
and finny brooks, which greatly enhance the normal pleasures 
of mountain summer life. 

Gently now the train begins to move down the hill, and 
soon the brakes are firmly set and all steam is shut off for the 
great slide. You see an occasional cottage in the ravine on the 
right and anon a trim and pretty hamlet in the valley, with 
many elaborate and costly cottages surrounded by well kept 
lawns and handsome grounds. The next station is 

FLEISCHMANN'S (Griffin's Corners). Many men 
of wealth and station have beautiful cottages and 
grounds here. Many of these handsome homes are 
on the bluffs south of the track. 
There is now a change of landscape; wild and mountain- 
ous aspect peculiar to the Ulster section giving place to the 
pastoral and placid features of cleared land and agricul- 
tural life. You are now entering a dairyland, with its thor- 
oughbred cows, its rich milk and gilt edged butter, the home 
of the sugar-maple and the luscious products of the sap- 
bush. The trickling stream on the right is the East Branch of 
the Delaware, which soon gathers volume and force as we 
proceed. The mountain slopes are now more gentle and 
sparsely wooded. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



53 



ARKVILLE is the next station, four miles further 
down the valley, and 1,372 feet above tide. It is an 
important station because of the several tributary- 
regions converging here. Margaretville, one and 
one-half miles distant on the left, is a charming little hamlet 
at the base of Mount Pakatakan, one mile below the conflu- 
ence of Dry Brook and the East Branch and partly covering 
the ancient site of the Tuscarora Indian headquarters. The 
rural setting is marvelously attractive, and many artists of 
note have built summer studios here and in the environment 
of Arkville. This entire region has long been a famous trout- 
ing section. Dry Brook is a favorite stream with fishermen, 
having ample water to shield the wary game. 

Connection is here made with the Delaware & Northern 
Railroad for the following points: Margaretville, Dunraven, 
Arena, Union Grove, Andes, Shavertown, Pepacton, Downs- 
ville, Colchester, Gregorytown, Shinhopple, Harvard and East 
Branch. These towns are located in a picturesque valley. 
They are noted for their many mountain springs of pure water 
and invigorating air, also excellent trout fishing. The several 
towns have many attractive boarding houses. 

On leaving this station the train curves sharply toward 
the right at an obtuse angle, abandoning its southwesterly 
course upon which it lately entered, and pursuing \// 
nearly the opposite direction for several miles. Ark- -%, 

ville being in the vortex of the angle. You are '^) 

now entering a charming glade known as the \ 

valley of the East Branch; a fine dairy 
section, with succulent grasses, milch 
cows, milk, milk cans and milk sta- 
tions in full supply. The little 
stream loiters lazily and winds in 
and out with wondrous beauty 
through the level vale evi- 
dently on grace and - - 
pleasure bent, for there ' 
seems no other reason 
for avoiding a straight ,; 
course, unless it was to \ 
increase the charms of "" x 
the landscape. \. 




54 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

KELLY'S CORNERS is the first stop on this new 
course. City boarders are entertained at the pleas- 
ant farm houses in the vicinity and they thrive won- 
drously upon the rich and pure products of the dairy 
so abundant there. 

HALCOTTVILLE, fifty-four miles from Kingston 
Point and 1403 feet above tide, is the next way stop 
amid these quiet surroundings. It has several 
houses for summer entertainment in and about the 
hamlet. A bit of a lake will be seen on the right as the train 
moves onward, where sundry aquatic sports are enjoyed. 

ROXBURY, sixty miles from the river, that quaint and 
familiar old town near the source of the East Branch, 
now over a hundred years old, is then reached. The 
altitude is 1,495 feet and the station is one of the im- 
portant stops in the Delaware section. Many a family vaca- 
tion is quietly and delightfully spent in and about this little 
village every summer. The elaborate and imposing granite 
structure seen at the upper end of the village soon after the 
train leaves the station, is the Gould Memorial Church. The 
grounds and stream intervening have been handsomely 
treated under the direction of Miss Helen Gould, who spends 
part of her summer at Roxbury, where her father was born 
and spent his early life. 

The mountains are no longer conspicious by their height 
in this locality, but seem like hills in comparison to those you 
have been accustomed to on this route. For three or four 
miles the wayside aspect changes mainly in detail. But then 
you pass Irish Mountain on the right and soon afterward Bald 
Mountain on the left, where the train curves almost at right 
angles into a deep gorge, running now four or five miles in a 
northwesterly direction. There is a return of rugged grandeur 
for a time, especially in the high, shelving rocks that jut out 
almost over the track as you approach the station of 

GRAND GORGE, sixty-six miles from the river 
and 1,563 feet above tide. The hamlet itself nestles 
serenely down in the valley on the right less than a 
mile from the station, and will be seen from the car 
window soon after the train pulls out. It was formerly known 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



55 



as "Moresville," being named for John More, the first white set- 
tler, who came there in 1786, and who afterward became the 
founder of a numerous and influential family in that region. 
Stages are here taken for Gilboa, three miles, and Prattsville, 
five miles distant, over good roads and through a lovely sec- 
tion. Both places are on the Schoharie creek, which here 
flows within about three miles of The Ulster & Delaware road. 
They are popular summer regions for which visitors leave 
the train in large numbers. 

Prattsville is a delightful old village with an historic aroma, 
its formation dating back nearly two hundred years. But the 
mediaeval customs of its ancestors have been supplanted by 
the modern features of mountain village life, and there are very 
good reasons for its claim as an ideal, quiet, interior village re- 
sort. The little streets are thickly shaded and well kept, and 
there are many rare natural attractions. Devasego Falls, just 
below the village, is a famous bit of scenery which merits all 
the admiration bestowed upon it. Pratt's Rocks, so named 
from Col. Pratt, the noted tanner, and founder of the place, are 
also near at hand. They are visited by hundreds annually be- 
cause of the artistic carving in bas-relief, of the old Pratt Tan- 
nery, a bust of Col. Pratt, and other 
figures emblematic of his pur- 
suits and possessions. 
Upon these high, 
precipitous rocks the 
marks of the antedi- 
luvian currents are 
plainly visible. 

The wayside now 
grows picturesque 
with stumps, stump- 
fences, rocks and 
stones, and the train 
speeds quickly over 
the six miles inter- 
vening between 
Grand Gorge and 






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56 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



SOUTH GILBO A. This hamlet is seventy-two miles 
from the Hudson River and it is the summit of the Dela- 
ware County section, the elevation being 1,747 feet 
above tide, which you have approached so gradually 
through the glade that you can scarcely realize it is within 100 
feet of the Grand Hotel station summit. There are a few quiet 

boarding 
places in the 
vicinity, and 
boating facil- 
ities upon 
Mayham's 
Lake, near 
the station. 
The hamlet 
is two miles 
toward the 
northeast. 
This place, 
which now 
has a modern 
new station 
building and 
improved sta- 
tion grounds, 
promises to 
be one of the 
popular cot- 
tage sections 
in the moun- 
tains. A num- 
ber of people 
have already expressed a desire to join in the new enterprise, 
and the drives and walks through the proposed park will be 
laid out in an attractive and artistic manner. 

The train now turns into a westerly course, skipping over 
the level three miles at a lively rate, when the whistle sounds 
and you see many passengers preparing to alight, having 
reached the end of their journey. 




THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 57 

STAMFORD is the station and one of the most charm- 
ing and popular summer villages in all the Catskills, 
for which there is ample reason. No visitor will re- 
gret the long seventy-five mile ride from the Hudson, 
or seventy-two from Kingston, even though he may have 
failed to fully admire and appreciate the wayside scenery. 
The elevation is 1,790 feet, and the grand and massive crag of 
Mount Utsayantha rises directly from the village streets over 
1 ,500 higher. The place is distinctly modern in all its features, 
having fully outgrown every ancient aspect and custom years 
ago, although possessing a history replete with interest. The 
town was settled by a people from Stamford, Conn., hence its 
name. Utsayantha, which might well have been retained, but 
for the patriotic spirit of its New England founders, was a 
beautiful Indian maiden, concerning whom, her white husband 
and their little babe, forest tradition hands down a tragic story. 
Near the village site was also the scene of a desperate battle 
between the patriots, the Tories and the Indians over a century 
ago. Its history as a summer resort, however, does not extend 
much over thirty years. But its growth and development 
since then have been simply marvelous. There are now a 
score of large hotels and smaller houses, and nearly two thou- 
sand guests may find accommodations within the village 
limits. 

While Nature has indeed been exceptionally lavish in her 
gifts, the thrift and enterprise of the Stamford residents, so 
clearly visible at every step, have had a large share in the de- 
velopment and success of the place. The buildings are es- 
pecially attractive in design and careful preservation. The 
streets are bordered with handsome lawns unobstructed by 
fences, and overarched by rows of majestic maples. There are 
miles of bluestone sidewalk, a fine water and sewer system, 
electric and gas illumination, good telephonic facilities, five 
thriving churches, a Union Free School and Seminary, a public 
Library, National Bank and two sprightly weekly newspapers. 
The crest of Utsayantha Mountain,3,365feetabovetide, is easily 
reached by a good carriage road. It has an observatory from 
which twenty thousand square miles of mountain territory, in- 
cluding thirty prominent peaks, and portions of four States may 



58 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 




be seen with the cities of Albany and Schenectady in the dis- 
tance. The village site overlooking the broad valley entrance, 
where the headwaters of the Delaware are received, is charm- 
ing. The region forms the watershed between three river 
basins. One mile east is Bear Creek, which empties into the 

Schoharie, and within fifteen min- 
utes' walk west, is the source of 
streams which are tributary to the 
Susquehanna. Thus within the ra- 
dius of a single mile one may drink 
from the headwaters of three great 
rivers. The roads all about are ex- 
cellent and there is every induce- 
ment and much enjoyment in driving 
and cycling along these rippling 
streams, and through the pretty 
wooded glens. 

HOB ART, four miles beyond and 1,637 feet above 
tide is the next station. It is a pretty little village 
with a history antedating the.Revolution. There is 
a fine falls and waterpower, which gave it the old 
name of "Waterville," which was afterward changed at the 
suggestion of Rev. Philander Chase, the old church rector who 
became a bishop in Ohio, in later years. There are several 
churches and various hotels and boarding houses where vis- 
itors come in increas- 
ing numbers each 
season, delighting to 
live in this smiling 
dell in the southwest- 
ern margin of the 
Catskills, seventy- 
eight miles from the 
Hudson. There ap- 
pears to be a new in- 
terest in this historic 
town and many ad- 
ditional attractive 
summer homes are 
contemplated. 




THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



59 



SOUTH KORTRIGHT is at the end of the next four 
miles down the Delaware and 1,527 feet above tide 
water. It is the center of a rich dairy section. The 
town was settled by sturdy Scotch and Irish people, to 
which nations so many of the Delaware farmers are largely 
indebted for their rugged and honored ancestry. They came 
in at an early period and had their full share of the Indian 
depredations so prevalent at that time. The South Kortright 
Inn is one of the pleasing new features of this locality, and is 
an up-to-date and first-class place for the entertainment of 
summer visitors. 




BLOOMVILLE is reached after a spin of five miles, 
and you are now eighty-seven miles from the Hudson 
river and 1,493 feet above it, and about eight miles from 
the village of Delhi, which is reached by stage after a 
most interesting drive through this beautiful valley. This is 
another of the older Delaware towns, with summer attrac- 
tions for city visitors. 



60 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

KORTRIGHT STATION is the first stop after 
leaving Bloomville. This is ninety-two miles from 
the Hudson river, and the elevation above tide-water 
is 1,868 feet. From the top of this mountain you get 
an extended view of this beautiful dairy land, and of both 
Delaware and Otsego counties. 

EAST MEREDITH, ninety-nine miles from the 
Hudson river and 1,353 feet above it, is the next 
station. The altitude has now dropped over 500 feet 
as the plateau of the Catskills is left. Dairying is still 
the dominant feature here, it being widely famous on that ac- 
count, and the celebrated Merridale Farms, 1,500 acres in ex- 
tent, are located at this point. This is one of the desirable 
country towns, where city people may find a quiet spot for 
rest and recreation. The scenery in this vicinity is charming 
and, as for the air, a better tonic could scarcely be found. 

DAVENPORT CENTER is one hundred one 
miles from the river and the elevation is 1,222 feet. 
This is another one of those charming country places 
where you find the best air, the best water and plenty 
of pure milk, butter and eggs for which this country is noted. 
There are a few desirable small boarding houses, where one 
may find comfortable quarters during the vacation term. 
Here also is located Sherman Lake surrounded by beautiful 
pine groves. This is one of the delightful resorts of the Cats- 
kill region, as here are cottages, camps, hotels and various 
amusements, including boating, bathing and fishing. 

WEST DAVENPORT is now reached and you 
are one hundred four miles from the Hudson. The 
elevation is 1,178 feet. This is a small hamlet pleas- 
antly located, and within four miles of the western 
terminus of the line and surrounded by a rich agricultural 
district. There are a few comfortable boarding houses lo- 
cated in the village where desirable accommodations may be 
found for those seeking a quiet summer home. 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



61 



ONEONTA, the western terminus, is one hundred 
eight miles from Kingston Point and 1,094 feet above 
tide water. It is the center of a very wide stretch 
of farming country, situated in a broad valley. The 
streets are broad and heavily shaded, level and kept in 
good order. Its population is from 8,000 to 10,000. It has 
all modern improvements, including a first-class system of 
water works, an up-to-date electric plant, a complete system of 
sewers, a trolley road connecting the eastern and western ends 
of the town, and many handsome and attractive residences. 
The business portion of the town is well equipped with fine 
business houses, stores and markets. It also has a modern 
and well-fitted theatre, first-class hotels, a normal school which 
has some 500 students. The place also has two fine clubs, 
banks, a very handsome Y. M. C. A. building, several beautiful 
churches, one of the largest fair grounds in the State, and many 
other attractions. At Oneonta, The Ulster & Delaware con- 
nects with the Susquehanna Division of the Delaware & Hud- 
son Railroad. Also with the Cooperstown Branch of the D. 
& H. system and with the trolley line running to Cooperstown 
and Richfield Springs. 

The variety of scenery through the "Haunts of Rip Van 
Winkle" after a trip along the famous Hudson river, either by 
rail or boat, thence through the Charlotte Valley, makes this 
a charming trip and the favorite route to those popular resorts. 
Cooperstown is a village of handsome residences, pleasant 
homes, and the hand of elegant culture is everywhere to be 
seen. The village has an excellent system of water works, the 
supply being taken from Otsego Lake. The water is as pure 
and wholesome as 

can be secured in this ^ 

state. It has many 
charming walks and 
drives, and is a good 
center for excur- 
sions. The lake sup- , 
plies good boating | 
and fishing, ' 



r< 






'^^feC^^ 




THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 63 

THE STONY CLOVE AND KAATERS- 
KILL BRANCH. In order to reach the Greene 
county section of the range, so long and justly famous 
in song and story for its rare scenic attractions, where 
thousands of summer visitors from every clime have revelled 
and recuperated year after year, the main line of The Ulster & 
Delaware system must be left at Phoenicia, and visitors for 
that delightful region reach it without change of cars. This 
means through parlor cars from New York to Hunter, Tan- 
nersville, Haines' Falls, the Laurel House, the Kaaterskill 
Hotel and the Catskill Mountain House. 

Many pages might well be devoted here to the entrancing 
scenery which unrolls like a panorama as the train proceeds 
through this wonderful valley and mountain canyon, known far 
and wide as the Stony Clove Notch. Though familiar with all 
the graphic descriptions upon paper and canvas, one is sure to 
be surprised with the charming reality. Geologists differ 
widely as to the probable cause of this marvelous cleavage of 
the crags as seen in this Notch, or at what stage of the world's 
history this mighty upheaval took place. While the traverse 
strata or rock on either side, closely corresponding in character 
and elevation, seemed to have been severed and forced asunder 
a few rods by some Cyclopean impulse and then held immov- 
able, we can get no further in our speculative dream than that. 
Nature closes the door at this point upon human investigation 
and courts our admiration only. Surely no visitors to the 
Catskills will care to miss a trip through the Stony Clove. 

Leaving Phoenicia the train sweeps over the Esopus and 
around a broad curve to the right, pursuing a northeasterly 
course most of the way. Much of the grade is heavy, reaching 
a maximum of 187 feet per mile near the Notch. The summit 
there is 2,071 feet above tide, and there is a climb of 1,273 feet 
in ten miles, and you are charmed amid the marvelous beauties 
of this primeval bit of nature. The first station on this branch 
is 

CHICHESTER, thirty miles from Kingston Point and 
1,014 feet above tide. It was named for the Chichester 
family which came originally from, Wales. There are 
extensive manufacturing plants and a collection of 



64 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



small dwellings down in the valley. Chairs and fine cabinet 
work are made there, to which the place is devoted. SoOn after 
leaving the station, if at the right season in June, you pass 
through a perfect flower garden of mountain laurel, which ex- 
tends for acres upon either side, each shrub a gorgeous mass of 
pink beauty in a setting of dark green leaves. In fact, this en- 
tire route presents a charming variety of wild flowers, ferns, 
trailing vines and green shrubbery which bloom in succession 
during the summer, filling the air with wildwood fragrance. 
Lovers of plants and wild flowers may revel in the woodland 
treasures which abound in this region. Among the species 
found are clematis, ferns in great variety, sarracenias, honey- 
suckles, Indian pipe, daisies, eupatorium, lilies, phlox, and a 
host of others. 

C' ^ESVILLE, thirty-three miles from Kingston Point 
and elevation of 1,355 feet, is the next stop, and a 
favorite section with modest visitors who prefer to 
avoid the bustle and the crowd. There are several 
houses in this picturesque locality where solid comfort may 
be enjoyed, and there is good fishing in the surrounding 
streams. Steeple Mountain and Burnt Knob rise abruptly 
skyward over across the valley, and there are various other 
soaring peaks with craggy crests now coming into view, which 
add rugged grandeur to the scene. Another three miles up- 
ward and onward brings the train to a halt at 




THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 65 

EDGEWOOD, 1,787 feet above tide. Nature's set- 
ting will engage your attention. Until this point, you 
have been on the eastern slope of the deep valley, with 
the Stony Clove Creek and the old wagon road far be- 
low, and cascades, mills, little churches, schools and cottages 
at intervals, where a few acres of almost perpendicular 
meadows have been reclaimed from the relentless grasp of the 
great crag. The Notch itself is now just ahead, and the valley 
contracts suddenly as its throat is approached. The valley 
ends, or rather begins just here with a broad open pool of 
water in which the picturesque 
margin of fallen and upright 
dead and other green and beau- 
tiful spruce trees are reflected. 
There is now a climb of 280 
feet to reach the summit in the 
Notch, and the grade can no 
longer be evaded or trifled with. 
There is not much over a mile 
in which to make the ascent, 
and you feel, hear and see that 

it is uphill. You hear the whistle and bell which waken the 
echoes in unbending measure, and next you feel the brakes 
released as the train begins a gradual descent. You are in 
the Notch, with Hunter Mountain 4,038 feet, and the second 
highest in the range, on the left, straight toward the sky, and 
Plateau Mountain on the right, with a narrow strip of sky far 
above. The track and the old wagon road are battling for 
space at the bottom of the gorge for a time ; but the rocky 
and rooty road has the right of way by priority of possession, 
and it must be duly respected. 

KAATERSKILL JUNCTION, forty miles from 
Kingston Point and elevation 1,722 feet, is at length 
announced. It is in the woods, with the open valley 
of the Schoharie on the left, and this is the point 
where passengers change for the Hunter branch. Continu- 
ing this gradual descent on a sharp curve to the left for about 
two miles along that stream, the famous old village of 

5 




66 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



HUNTER is reached. This is one of the most popular 
summer regions in the Catskills. It is a quaint Httle 
mountain village, the town being formerly known as 
"Greenland." The general elevation is about 1,600 
feet, and there is a wealth of picturesque attractions. Bits of 
ancient architecture are yet to be seen in the mile or more of 
street that stretches along the northerly side of the Schoharie 
creek. There are several large and attractive hotels, two or 
three churches, many stores and shops. "Colonel's Chair" 
peak, 3,165 feet high, a spur of Hunter Mountain, forms the 
southern sky-line immediately across the Schoharie, to which 
the ascent is easy and most interesting, as it is also to the par- 
ent crag. In addition to all this, there are miles upon miles of 
excellent roads, leading out in every direction, upon which the 
wise and good people of that town have spent over $20,000 
during the past years in sensible and permanent repairs, which 
is bringing its reward in an increased number of city visitors, 
who delight to drive in this charming locality. With all these 
advantages there is little wonder that so many thousands re- 
turn to old Hunter year after 
year to spend their summer. 
Previous to the railway it 
was almost inaccessible, 
however, as were the favor- 
ite regions of Beaches Cor- 
ners, Lexington, Hensonville, 
Windham and Jewett 
Heights, which are now 
reached by stage from this 
station. But resuming the 
eastward journey at Kaaters- 
kill Junction, we have still 
eight miles of rails to trav- 
erse before reaching the 
northeastern terminus of 
this mountain system. A 
run of three lovely miles now 
brings us to 




THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



67 



TANNERSVILLE, 1863 feet above tide. Colonel 
Edwards of Northampton, Mass., moved in the town 
early in the last century, and established an extensive 
tanning plant there; and it soon became a great tan- 
ning center, remaining thus until the hemlock bark was ex- 
hausted. This fact led to its name. It has long been a very 
popular boarding section and has grown in favor with cot- 
tagers. There are numerous large hotels with combined facil- 
ities for entertaining over two thousand summer guests. 
Various social clubs and other associations have been attracted 
here since the advent of the railway, purchasing large tracts 
of mountain land and converting them into parks and fine 
roadways, and erecting many handsome summer dwellings. 









^' ~^ -''^"^^^^^^g^ ■ 




IflMWHBteib 



fine club-houses, and other convenient buildings. Among 
these may be named the Elka Park Association over on Spruce 
top slope, near the source of the Schoharie, seen on the right, 
Onteora Park, across the valley, north of the station, and Scho- 
harie Manor adjoining Elka Park. 



68 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

HAINES' FALLS is at the end of the succeeding 
two miles, which are sure to challenge the admira- 
tion, even at this late stage of the journey. Another 
lively station is this, nearly 2,000 feet above the sea. 
You are now at the head of the famous Kaaterskill Clove, of 
which there is but one, and the like of which there is no other. 
For entrancing beauty of situation it has no equal. The view 
down the great canyon to the Hudson and beyond, is grand and 
beautiful, defying all description of pen or brush, and there is 
rare native charm on every hand. Nothing which man has 
done — and there is much of his work here— has been able to 
despoil the mighty chiseling of nature in this great clove, nor 
even divert the attention for a moment from the sublime and 
transcendent vastness of this scene. Here at the head of the 
canyon the water plunges madly over the precipice 160 feet in 
height, and then descends by a series of cascades and rapids 
1,200 feet more in four miles, to Palenville, on its woodland way 
to the Hudson. Halfway down it is joined by the Kaaterskill 
stream which tumbles in from the lateral gorge on the left. 
It is not strange, of course, that people love to linger here, as 
there are many good hotels, large and small. Just over the 
falls, and on the massive slope of Mount Lincoln, which here 
towers 3,664 feet in the air and forms the great south wall of the 
clove, several parks have been established. These will be seen 
most effectively soon after the train leaves the station. The 
first is Sunset Park, above the falls, then follow Twilight and 
Santa Cruz Parks, with their many attractive cottages, casinos 
and club houses, which together make a very extensive settle- 
ment here in the woods in picturesque contrast to the unrivalled 
mountain setting. A summer home here, with housekeeping 
cares and fashion at the minimum, must be and is, highly 
enjoyable. 

As the train moves onward through this historic region, 
with the gorge now on the right, you will need to be alert to 
catch even a passing glimpse of the many objects of interest 
that appear in quick succession. Through the trees on the 
right, just before reaching the next station, two miles above, 
will be seen the celebrated Kaaterskill Falls, which "Natty 
Bumpo" called "the best piece of work in the woods." The 
momentary stop is 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 



69 



T AUREL HOUSE STATION. A few rods down to 
I the right stands that famihar and historic old resort 

I A at the head of this beautiful gorge into which the sil- 
very sheen of sparkling water tumbles hundreds of 
feet from a solid amphitheatre of shelving rock beneath which 
and behind the falling foam itself you may walk on the other 
shelves of rock, dry shod, and view the novel scene, which 
well repays for the labor of the return climb. It is a resort 
with many hallowed associations extending over three-quar- 
ters of a century. 




D.T:Htsb^o«.<H-/v.V 



The entrancing spot has inspired the pens and brushes of 
authors and artists for a century, and its beauty can never 
fade. Sunset rock, less than a mile along the slope of this 
gorge, and at an elevation of 2,115 feet, is a famous outlook 
over the yawning canyon, where Haines' Falls makes a charm- 
ing picture up at the head of the clove. 

The last mile of the railway is now quickly covered 
through the forest, and you alight at 



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 71 

KAATERSKILL STATION on the margin of 
a beautiful sheet of water known as Kaaterskill Lake, 
which here nestles lovingly in its mountain basin 
2,141 feet above the sea. Half a mile away is the great 
Hotel Kaaterskill, standing on the crest of the crag and sur- 
rounded by a Mountain Park of over 12,000 acres, in which an 
excellent system of drives and walks is carefully maintained. 
The view of river and valley from this altitude of over 2,500 
feet is unobstructed and charming beyond compare. Prompt 
and speedy connection is made from every train at this station 
by light mountain carriages, and the walk up the hill is 
short and delightful. Here, too, within a short half mile by a 
lovely road that borders and passes between Kaaterskill and 
its sister lake, known as North Lake, is the famous old Catskill 
Mountain House, on that grand old tablerock that has hung 
there in mid-air, commanding that famous "valley view," the 
praises of which have been sounded around the world all these 
years. This old land mark and pioneer summer mountain 
hotel now opens for its ninetieth season. 






' Tis here the eastern sunbeams gild 
The hills which rise on either hand ; 

Till showers of purple mist are spilled 
In glit'ring dewdrops o'er the land." 





■'^..- 7>^ 



jxT'-&Sil;^^cK-/v.f. 



1;. 



THE MORNING MAIL. 



STAGE CONNECTIONS. 



AT BIG INDIAN— For Oliverea, -5 miles, fare 50 cents ; for Slide Moun- 
tain P. O., 5 miles, fare 75 cents; for Winnisook Lodge, 8}4 miles, 
fare 11.00 ; for Branch, 12 miles, fare $1.00; for Frost Valley, 15 miles, 
fare $1.35 ; for Clary\ille, 22 miles, fare $1.50; connecting with train 
No. 9 on week days. Also additional service from June 1st until Oct. 
1st for Oliverea and for Slide Mountain P. O. , connecting with trains 
Nos. 33 and 7. 

AT BLOOMVILLE— For Delhi, 8 miles, fare 75 cents; connecting with 
all west bound trains on week days and with train No. 9 on Sunday. 
Also during summer months automobile service connecting with all 
trains. 

For Bovina Centre, 6 miles, fare 75 cents, connecting with train 
No. 9 on week days. 

AT GRAND GORGE— For Prattsville, 5 miles, fare 50 cents ; for Gilboa, 
4^ miles, fare 40 cents, connecting with trains Nos. 7, 8 and 9 on week 
days, excepting during summer months connecting with trains Nos 
8, 9 and 33. 

AT HUNTER— For Windham, 9 miles, fare $1.00; for Hensonville, 7 
miles, fare 75 cents ; for Beaches Corners, 4 miles, fare 50 cents ; 
connecting with trains Nos. 109, (209) and 7, (207) on week days. 

For Lexington, 9 miles, fare $1.00 ; for Jewett, 9 miles, fare 75 
cents; for Ashland, 14 miles, fare $1.00, connecting with train No. 109, 
(309) on week days and from June 1st to Oct. 1st also with train No. 
7,(207). 

AT SHANDAKEN— For Bushnelhalle, 4)4 miles, fare 50 cents; for 
Westkill, 8)4 miles, fare $1.00 ; for Lexington, 12^ miles, fare $1.00, 
connecting with train No. 9 on week days, excepting during summer 
months connecting with trains Nos. 9, 33 and 7. 

AT STAMFORD — For Harpersfield Centre, 4 miles, fare 25 cents, leaving 
Stamford at 7:30 p. m., on week days. 

For South Jefferson, 3 miles, fare 25 cents ; for Jefferson, 7 miles, 
fare 50 cents ; for Summit, Schoharie County, 14 miles, fare $1.25 ; 
for Richmondvalle, IS miles, fare $1.50, connecting with trains Nos. 8, 
9 and 7 on week days. 

AT WEST HURLEY— For Woodstock, 5 miles, fare 40 cents; for 
Bearsville, 7 miles, fare 40 cents ; for Shady, Sig miles, fare 40 cents ; 
for Lake Hill, 10 miles, fare 50 cents ; for Willow, 13^ miles, fare 60 
cents, connecting with trains Nos. 109 and 107 on week days, except- 
ing during the \\anter months the afternoon stage does not go beyond 
Bearsville. Also during months of July and August Woodstock 
Stage meets train No. 37. 

For Mead's Mountain House, 8 miles, fare $1.00; for Overlook 
Mountain House, 9 miles, fare $1.50, connecting with trains Nos. 33 
and 7 during summer months only. 

78 






LIST OF STATIONS— ELEVATIONS— DISTANCE TABLE. 



Ulster & Delaware 

Stations on Main Line 

and Branches. 



> 

to ^ -^ 






Kingston Pt. 
Kingston ■\ Rondout Sta. 

Kingston ^^ 

Stony Hollow, 

West Hurley. . . . . 

Olive Branch, 

Brown's Station, 

Brodhead's Bridge, 

Shokan, 

Boiceville, 

Cold Brook, 

Mount Pleasant, 

Phoenicia 

Shandaken, 

Big Indian, 

Pine Hill, 

Grand Hotel Station, 

Fleischmanns, 

Arkville, 

Kelly's Corners, 

Halcottville, 

Roxbury, 

Grand Gorge, 

South Gilboa, 

Stamford, 

Hobart, 

South Kortright, 

Bloomville 

Kortright Station, 

East Meredith, 

Davenport Center, 

West Davenport 

Oneonta 

Chichester, 

Lanesville, 

Edgewood, 

Kaaterskill Junction, 

Hunter, 

Tannersville, 

Haines' Falls, 

Laurel House Station 

Kaaterskill 



Tide 

183 
424 

514 

527 
502 

60C) 
644 

713 
794 
068 
212 
660 



519 
372 
380 
403 
49 s 

747 
790 

637 

527 

493 
868 

353 
222 
178 
094 



014 

787 
722 
602 
863 
920 
2067 
2141 



7:. ^ 



97 
98 
01 
04 
07 
08 
10 
1 1 

14 
16 
21 

2S 
28 
30 

33 
31 
40 
42 
48 

54 
60 

63 
66 
70 

7S 
80 

87 
89 
92 
96 



21 
24 
28 
3' 
31 
33 
35 
36 



E ^ 
^ ^ +-, 

c/2 Co. 

q5 



Q o 



I 

3 

9 
10 

•3 
16 

19 
20 

22 

23 
26 
28 
33 
31 
40 
42 
4S 

49 

52 

54 
60 
66 
72 

75 
78 
82 

87 
92 

99 

lOI 

104 
108 



30 

33 
36 
40 

43 
43 
4S 

47 

48 



9 
12 

15 
18 

•9 

21 

22 

25 
27 

32 
36 
39 
41 
44 
48 
51 
53 
=^9 
6s 

71 
74 

77 
81 
86 

91 

98 

100 

103 

107 



c-9 



555 



29 

92 

35 

39 
42 

42 

44 
46 

47 



6 

7 
10 

'3 
16 

17 
19 
20 
23 
25 
30 
34 
37 
39 
42 
46 

49 
51 
57 
63 
69 

72 
75 
79 
84 

89 
96 

98 

lOI 

105 
27 
30 
33 
37 
40 
40 
42 
44 
45 



LIST OF ULSTER & DELAWARE STATIONS SHOWING 
RATES OF FARE FROM lUNCTlON POINTS TO 
ALL POINTS ON MAIN LINE AND BRANCHES. 






^^ 




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( Kingston Point. . . . 
Kingston ■] Rondout Station. . . . 

( Kingston (Union Station) 

Stony Hollow 

West Hurley 

Olive Branch 

Brown's Station 

Brodhead's Bridge 

Shokan 

Boiceville 

Cold Brook 

Mt. Pleasant 

Phoenicia 

Shandaken. ... .... 

Big Indian 

Pine Hill 

Grand Hotel Station 

Fleischmanns 

Arkville 

Kelly's Corners 

Halcottvilie 

Roxbury 

Grand Gorge 

South Gilboa 

Stamford 

Hobart 

South Kortright 

Bloomville 

Kortright Station 

East Meredith 

Davenport Center 

West Davenport 

Oneonta ■_ 

Chichester 

Lanesville 

Edgewood 

Kaaterskill Junction 

Hunter 

Tannersville 

Haines' Fails 

Laurel House Station 

Kaaterskill 



.05 
.09 
.27 
.30 

•39 
.48 
•57 
.60 
.66 
.69 
•78 
.84 
.99 

1. 11 
1.20 
1.26 

1^35 
1.47 
1.56 
1.62 
1.80 
1. 98 
2.16 
2.25 
2.34 
2.46 
2.61 
2.76 
2.97 
3.03 

3. 12 
3.24 



$ .05 

.06 

.24 

.27 

.36 

•45 

•54 

•57 

•63 

.66 

•75 

.81 

.96 

1.08 

1. 17 

1.23 

1.32 

1.44 

153 
1.59 
1.77 
1.95 
2.13 
2.22 
2.31 
2.43 
2.58 
2.73 
2.94 
3.00 
3.09 
3.21 



.90 
.99 
1.08 
1.20 
1.29 
1.29 

135 
1. 41 
1. 41 



•87 
.96 
1.05 
1. 17 
1.26 
1.26 
1.32 
1.38 
1.38 



.09 
.06 

.18 
.21 

.30 

•39 
.48 
•51 
•57 
.60 
.69 

•75 
.90 
1.02 
1. 14 
1. 17 
1.26 
1.38 
1.47 
i^53 
1. 71 
1.89 
2.07 
2.16 
2.25 
2.37 
2.52 
2.67 
2.88 
2.94 
3.03 
3^15 



.81 
.90 

•99 
I. II 

1.20 
1.20 
1.26 
1.32 

1-35 



3.24 
3.21 

3.15 
2.97 
2.94 
2.85 
2.76 
2.70 
2.64 
2.58 

2.55 
2.46 
2.40 
2.25 
2.13 
2.04 
1.98 
1.89 
1.77 
1.68 
1.62 

1^44 
1.26 
I. II 

•99 
.90 

.78 
•63 
.48 
.27 
.21 
.12 



2.46 

2.55 
2.64 
2.76 
2.82 
2.85 
2.91 
2.94 
2.97 



CONNECTIONS AT JUNCTION POINTS AS FOLLOWS : 

/ AT KINGSTON POINT LANDING— Witli Hudson River Day Line 

I SteaiiHM-s. 

\ AT RONDOUT STATION— With Rhinecliff Ferry for New York 
le iivi/~e!-r/^ivi ' 'flit in I tt Hmistm KiviT K. R. 

iMINCaOTOIN \Vit li Nitrlit Line Steamers and Steamer Mary Powell. 

I AT UNION STATION— With West Shore and Wallkill Valley 

( Railroads. 

\ Also via trolley with N. Y., O. &. W. R. R. 
AT PHOENICIA— With Stony Olove &- Kaaterskill Branch and for Hunter Branch. 
AT ARKVILLE— With Delaware & Nort hern Railroad. 

AT ONEONTA— (StMge Transfer)— With Susquehanna Division and Oooperstown 
Branch of Delaware lV Hutlson Railroad; also ( stage transfer) 
with trolley line for Oooperstown and Richfield Springs. 



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ANNOUNCEMENT. 



This book is issued solely for the 
purpose of furnishing the public with 
reliable information regarding the 
Ulster & Delaware Railroad, the great 
Mountain summer resort and hotel and 
boarding house accommodations. Also 
for such other purpose as outlined in 
the Introductory. 

The following pages are Special 
and not intended to convey the idea 
that this book is an advertising medi- 
um, as it is not. 

The space is allotted to hotels and 
boarding houses located on or near line 
of this railroad that desire to use them 
at a nominal cost, not as advertising, 
but as special information to the public, 
and considered of value to those who 
use this pamphlet. 



79 



THE GRAND HOTEL 

Located on main line of U. & D. R. R. at Grand Hotel Station (Post 
Office, Highmount, N. Y.) Operated by the Grand Hotel Company. 
Accommodates 450. Terms : Apply. 
Will open Thursday, June 27th, for season of 1912. 




LAMENT'S HOTEL 

W. LAMENT, Prop. BIG INDIAN, N. 

Accommodates 40. Terms $2.00 per day. Terms by 
week on application. 

This house open all the year to accommodate fishing and 
hunting parties. Good livery. Parlor car direct from New 
York. The best trout fishinar in this section. 



81 




WAWANDA INN 

iMRS. S. S. BOUTON, Prop. MARGARETVILLE, N. 

Accommodations for 80 guests. Rates on application. 
\evvly built. First class in every particular. Proprietor and 
landlady 14 \'ears' hotel experience. Booklet. Through par- 
lor cars via West Shore and Ulster & Delaware Railroads to 
Arkville. 



Y. 



82 




GREYCOURT INN 

KEYSER & HISCOX. Props. STAMFORD-IN-THE-CATSKILLS. 

Accommodates 50. Terms : x'\ppl3'. 



83 







j4k 



CHURCHILL HALL 

HOTEL HAMILTON 

S. T. BROWN. Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 350. Terms : Apply. 



81 




THE REXMERE 

C. W. PECK, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 150. Terms : Apply. 



85 




NEW GRANT HOUSE 

L. E. PARENT, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates lOO. Terms: Apply. 




VILLA BELLE AIRE 

MRS. GEORGE A. GRIFFIN, Prop. STAMFORD, X. Y. 

Accommodates 15. Terms: Apply. 

Open all the year. 




THE TERRACE 

MRS. R. C. SIMPSON, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 75. Terms : $10 and up. 

Open May to November. 




THE INGLESIDE 

CLARENCE H. BECKER, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 50. Terms : Apply. 




THE WESTHOLM 

MRS. W. R. BECKLEY, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 50. Terms : Apply. 



90 




PROSPECT PLACE 

MRS. G. O. LEONARD, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 20. Terms : Applj-. 




KENDALL PLACE 

G. W. KENDALL, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 70. Terms : Apply. 




THE ELMWOOD 

C. J. HAMILTON, Prop. STAMFORD, N. Y. 

Accommodates 35. Terms : Apply. 




DEVASEGO INN 

S. D. ^lASE, Prop. PRATTSVILLE, N. Y, 

Accommodates lOO. Terms : Apply. 




Scene showing Bathing at Devasego. 



94 




View of Devasesro Falls at Inn. 




View of Cottages at Devasogo and a portion of Lawn. 
i)5 




THE GRAHAM 

W. X. GRAHAM, Prop. PRATTSVILLE, N. Y. 

Accommodates 50. Terms : Apply. 

Automobile will meet guests at Grand Gorge Station. 



96 




PLEASANT HOME COTTAGE 

ANDREW CARMAN, Prop. PRATTSVILLE, X. Y. 

Accommodates 30. Terms : Apply. 



97 




UPLAND FARM HOUSE AND COTTAGES 

C. H. LEGG, Prop. HAINES' FALLS, N. Y. 

Accommodates 60. Terms : $8.00 to $10.00 per week. 
Situated on the slope of North Mountain, aUitude 2,500 feet. 




GLEN PARK HOUSE 

OWEN GLENNON, Prop. HAINES' FALLS, N. Y. 

Accommodates lOO. Terms : Apply. 

Is beautifully situated one mile from Haines' Falls Station. Elevation 2,500 feet. 



99' 




BELLE VUE HOUSE AND COTTAGES 

A. H. LEGG, Prop. HAINES' FALLS, N. Y. 

Accommodates 70. Terms : $8.00 to $15.00 per week. 

Pleasantly located at an elevation of over 2,000 feet above tide water. 




THE LAUREL HOUSE 

Located at Laurel House Station (Post Office, Haines' Falls, X. Y.) 

A. C. Inglessi, Prop. 

Accommodates 300. Terms : Apply. 

One of the most picturesque and healthful locations in the mountains. 





n n i.;; m'""\,;^^^ 




THE LOXHURST AND COTTAGE 

C. A. MARTIN, Prop. HAINES' FALLS, N. Y. 

Accommodates 125. Terms : $8.00 to $15.00 per week. 



102 




AUSTIN VILLA 

MRS. A. L. MURRAY, Prop. MARGARETVILLE, N. Y. 

Accommodates i6. Terms : $8.00 up. 
Direct all rail service to Arkville, N. Y., via West Shore 
R. R. Also via Day Line Steamers. 




RIP VAN WINKLE HOUSE 

M. SPARK, Mgr. PINE HILL, N. Y. 

Accommodates 175. Terms : Apply. 



104 




THE GLOBE HOTEL 

J. H. SPENCE, Prop. PHOENICIA, N. Y. 

Accommodates 50. Terms : Apply. 



105 




JOHN FROHNER'S VILLA MERCEDES 

JOHN FROHNER, Prop. WEST HURLEY, N. Y. 

Accommodates 30. Terms : $8.00 to $12.00 per week. 

This house with excellent German kitchen is open all the year. All supplies 

from own farm. Two miles from station. Automobile meets all trains. 



106 




CHAS. & GEO. H. BEACH, Mgrs. CATSKILL, N. Y. 

(R. R. Station, Kaaterskill, N. Y.) 
Accommodates 400. Elevation 2250 feet. 

Daily rate $4.00; weekly $21. to $28. 
The world famed view from this popular resort extends over 
12,000 square miles of the valley of the Hudson, unsurpassed 
anywhere in the world. 



107 



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